“What the Pros say…” is a series where I ask professionals in the beauty industry about things that I want to know about taking care of myself and sharing the answers with you, in hopes that it might answer some of your unasked questions, too.
In this installment of “What the Pros say…” we talk to “five (5) time Emmy Award winning, celebrity makeup artist, author and producer”, Eve Pearl. I was lucky enough to have a few moments with her at The Makeup Show, and even got to watch her Facetime in to watch the TMS Blogger Preview to see what James Vincent had to say about the upcoming show. Way tech savvy!
Here’s what she says about makeup on lovelies 40+:
1) First – Is there an expiration date for when to give up the glitter?
Eve: I feel if you’re old enough to spell GLITTER…you’re too old to wear it. Unless, of course you’re dressing up for a Theatrical Production, a Runway Show or Halloween. And even then I would try to talk myself out of it. Just the thought of how long glitter stays with you (on your clothes, furniture, face) long after you think you washed it off. Also, it’s a big NO, NO for High Def cameras and TV.
2) Do you prep skin differently when doing makeup for older lovelies?
Eve: Personally, I use the EVE PEARL Priming Moisturizer with Astaxanthin on everybody. It moisturizes, primes and treats the skin without leaving a rubbery silicone feeling. Everybody needs to hydrate their skin…especially, those of us not in our 20’s…ok, not in our 30’s and so on…. You want to have something on your skin prior to your foundation application which will treat your skin without oils, yet still hydrate…and not have a rubbery silicone feel once it dries. We want to look dewey, not dried up and not greasy either. Its finding that happy balance…and its out there.
3) Can blushes make us look too aging?
Eve: Only if we are using overly bright, trendy shades or over bronzing ourselves to look as though we’ve been attached by the sun or by the clown fairy. Should we stick to one type of application – cream or powder or should we layer? When working on Meredith Vieira (NBC;s Today show…she is 56) I use a cream blush first (a non oily/sticky or greasy one…EVE PEARL’s of course). Then I apply the Blush Trio in Medium. If possible, don’t stick to only one color. The Blush trio for instance, has 3 shades in it; a Matte Peach, a Matte Pink and a Bronzy shade with light illuminating shimmers. Remember, we like Shimmer, Not Glitter. Or even look for a multi-tasking type blush? We should try to always use all 3 colors…a bit of peachy, pinky and bronzer. This way you never have to think about what you’re wearing and match it, because what happens if you change your mind…not that women are ever known to do that. Also, try applying the 3 shades of blush with a FAN brush, it will not pick up too much color and prevent you from applying too much blush on, therefore, saving you the rubbing it off time and/or the looking like a clown…neither appealing. And for those of us that have that dip between our cheeks and our eyes…if you take your blush up as high as you can…that’s right close up near your eyes…it will actually give you the appearance of a face lift. Think about it, the focus will be on your raised cheeks. So, try staying away from putting your blush in the hollow of your cheeks, like we were taught in the 80’s…that looks dated. And we don’t want to look dated…ever. Although, I did see some shoulder pads returning on the red carpet at the Golden Globes.
4) If we have noticeable crowsfeet, should we draw attention to another part of the face, ie lips? Or just learn to really work with/enhance how they make our face work?
Eve: I have 2 words…Salmon Concealer. It will treat our crows feet, and the peachy pink shade will make the area look smoother. Do not use highlighters or light colors there…it will only accentuate the area. Remember, moisturize, salmon concealer and take your blush up high…with a fan brush…so it’s not too much color. Give it a try, it does work.
5) Are there certain colors of lippies or eyeshadows that are more aging than others?
Eve: I’ve worked on The View for over 9 years as the Department Head and on women all over their 50’s (Arianna Huffington, Meredith Vieira, Kathy Lee Gifford, Barbara Walters, Joy Behar…to name a few). I use the basic same colors on all of them, on myself and on 20 year olds…bless their little hearts. For the eyes I like using warm tones and jewel tones…I’ve heard some artists say not to use shimmers. I disagree, I always use shimmers (once again, not to be confused with glitter). Shimmers used properly (in the center part of the eye) with warm tones like peach, gold, brown, green all will make your eyes look beautiful…don’t forget to blend and not have harsh lines. As we get older, we want to avoid colors that are bland and boring and dry looking…like plain taupe, grey, purple and keeping them Matte…We want to look dewy and fresh….not dry. And for Lips, lets stay away from our granny colors of bright pink or bright orange. Lets stay with mauvey shades, warm browns, pinks and peaches…and throw some gloss over those hot lips. Oh, yes, and if you want to keep your lip liner from bleeding. Fill your entire lip with the liner. Go over the lip area with a concealer brush and your foundation and then powder the area. This will create a border and keep your lipstick, which you can apply after you powder around the lip area. And then gloss over it for a warm, luscious pop. That’s right, we always want to look our best and be luscious. Or should we stick with the neutral palettes? We can start with Neutrals, but don’t be afraid to throw in a bit of green…it will make the dull browns be less dull and you will never see the green. Give it a try.
6) What is the best type eyeliner for eyes?
Eve: I always start out with the EVE PEARL – BLACK PEARL LIQUID EYELINER. Once it dries it becomes waterproof and will stay on all day without budging. But I am not a fan of a harsh liner…I prefer things blended, or as us makeup artists call it “Smoking it out”…which means just blend out the liner with a dark warm toned shadow to thin out the liner. Or is it still a preference thing? Some women like using liquid and some still feel more comfortable with a pencil (still needs to be blended out) so it does not look harsh. And should we not be lining the entire eye/underneath? As a personal preference, I like lining the entire top lid with a liquid (and smoking it out). I line the bottom lid with a brown or black pencil and then use a shimmery bronze or gold eye shadow to thin out the pencil…bottom liner. It makes it all look less harsh. If you blend things out, you never need to make perfect lines.
Big thanks to Eve for answering my questions!
So, did you pick up a couple of new tricks that you want to try out? Or even just reinforce something you already thought? I know I read a couple of things that I never thought of before, like mixing different colors of blush together to get a look – I’m always a one color girl. What do you think – are you gonna mix?